Weatherstripping doors, windows, thresholds, cracks around seams, etc. *
Caulk interior and exterior joints, moldings, splash panels, windows, doors, roof vents, nails, wheel housings, gutters, all penetration points, etc. *
Water heaters - install insulation blankets, insulate pipes and closet, install heat traps, reduce thermostats to 115 degrees, consider purchasing a high efficiency model with 0.93 or better energy factor. *
Seal all plumbing , electrical, heating, ventilation, air-conditioning or other penetrations in the home. *
Repair/increase insulation around all exposed heating/cooling ducts to an R-11 level if possible, and be sure that all connections are tightly sealed. *
Heating/air-conditioning unit - consider a system tune-up for maximum efficiency. If the present system is over 10 years old or in poor condition, a high-efficiency heat pump (12 SEER or better rating) can sometimes save more per month in utility costs than the amount of the monthly note (if financed).
Water savings - install low-flow shower heads to save on excess pumping or water costs and water-heating expense.
The placement of a mobile home on a lot can greatly affect the amount of energy that is needed for heating and cooling. If at all possible, position the home so that the longest sides face north and south. Limit the amount of glass area along the west and north sides, and try to have the greatest amount of glass facing south.
A cover (built with a pitched roof to allow air movement) will shade the home completely and provide big energy savings.
A ground cover under a mobile home with six-mil polyethylene will prevent moisture from diffusing into the floor. If the home is skirted, the moisture barrier should overlap at least 12 inches at all joints and extend at least six inches up the foundation piers. Adding skirting is not very effective as an evergy-saving measure, but does improve the appearance and keeps animals off the ducts and duct wrap. It is always important to vent all four sides for air circulation.
Insulating the belly (underside) of the home with R-19 batt or blanket insulation can cut costs, but make sure that it is protected from animals and moisture.
Roof caps will increase the R-value of the roof to R-19, help prevent leaks and reduce roof rumble at the same time. They can be purchased in kit form.
Inspect the under-carriage of double-wide homes for a tight seal.
Interior storm window panels (self-storing type) can be effective and are more practical than the exterior type, which are removed and installed seasonally. Reflective films, coatings and screens can reduce a huge amount of the sun's radiant heat and also add efficiency.
* - Make these low-cost improvements first, as they are the most effective.
Special Notes
Proper ventilation - Many older mobile homes have ventilated outside walls; the vents are located at the top and bottom of the paneling and should not be caulked. If you have gas heating or a gas cookstove in your home, it is important that the home be checked for proper combustion-system ventilation after tightening it up through weatherization.
Foundations - The foundation is one of the most important places to check before weatherizing a mobile home. Serious problems can result if the foundation of a mobile home is not level. If the home settles, window and door openings can become distorted and building materials can separate, increasing air infiltration.
Walls - Many older mobile homes have little or no insulation in the walls. Reinsulating the walls with R-11 batts and adding an air infiltration barrier (such as Tyvek) to poorly sealed walls can greatly reduce heat loss and help control moisture problems. The problem is, paying a contractor to perform this task is seldom cost effective, as it would take many years of energy savings to recoup the contractor's labor expense.
